Monday, August 29, 2022

Day 1 (Ballindoney to Sarria)

A common question I get asked when I tell people I'm undertaking the Camino "so where do you start from?' There are MANY routes (or Ways) in Spainish, "Caminos" to get to Santiago de Compostella, to the supposed shine holding the remains of the apostle James (Son of Zebadee). Traditionally in Medieval times, great Catherals like Canterbury in England and Notre Dame in Paris were "starting points", but truly the pilgrimage begins when you leave home.
When I left at 1:30am this morning, Noreen was leaning out the window saying how beautiful the stars were. We said when we first moved into our new home with almost no "light bleed" into the night sky, that we would never tire of that majestic sight.
I got quite emotional as I could see the Milky Way right above where Noreen was. I was going to follow an ancient path to the Compostella (the Field of Stars). 
My emotion was short lived, as I switched on the engine and realised I had forgotten my phone! Needless to say Noreen had already spotted this and by the time I got to the door she had it in her hand!
Less than two hours later l was going through security at Dublin Airport...Madrid...I'm on my way!

OK...so arrived in a very sunny and 31°c Madrid....longest queue I've ever seen at a passport control....but in fairness it was moving...20 minutes later....I picked up my rucksack (my biggest concern of this whole trip was that would not arrive).
First Challenge of the day! Getting to my train station in Madrid from the airport!

As usual Gerry jumps on the train everyone else is getting on...it genuinely could have been headed for Kilkenny. Realised looking at Google Maps that I was probably a few stops away in the opposite direction after about 25 minutes. Managed to remove myself at the next stop and changed lines. Arrived with plenty of time to spare. Had my first Cafe Con Letche while waiting and feeling very bohemian! Video call check in with Noreen and now on board the train to Sarria. Feels very odd having to board a train where your luggage is checked (like in an airport) and you're security wanded!

Although there is no "set" starting point, all routes require you to walk a consecutive 100km (or 200km on bike/horseback) to obtain your certificate of completion (also called a "Compostella"). The route I am walking is the most popular called the Camino Frances. About half of all pilgrims walk this. "Traditionally" it starts on the French side of the Pyrenees in a small Basque town called St Jean Pier la Port. Crossing the mountains on Day 1 and going on via Pamploma, Burgos and Leon.
This is almost 900km and people do it in 30-40 days. About HALF of those pilgrims however begin their journey in SARRIA which is about 114km from Santiago de Compostella. One day I would dearly love to do "the long one" but this, I hope, will satisfy an itch I have had since a Spanish work colleague told me about in many years ago (Marcelino if you are reading this...you gave a lot to answer for).

Arrived safely at my lodgings for tonight...spotless! Just back from a quick scan of the route for the morning and was fortunate to catch a Pilgrims Mass that was just starting...didn't understand a word of it...but its amazing how the cadences of peoples voices in ritual is the same in any language.About 100 of us crammed into a small church...finished off with a quick bite to eat..and now bed beckons.
Thank you all for your kind wishes...and 

1 comment:

  1. Looking forward to hearing of your Travails, Gerry. Mind yourself and enjoy every second 😁

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