This is the daily blogs "cleaned up" for spelling and grammar in one document
Day 1 Ballindoney to Sarria
A common question I get asked when I tell people I'm undertaking the
Camino "so where do you start from?' There are MANY routes (or Ways) in Spanish,
"Caminos" to get to Santiago de Compostela, to the supposed shrine holding the remains of the apostle James (Son of Zebedee). Traditionally in
Medieval times, great Cathedrals like Canterbury in England and Notre Dame in
Paris were "starting points", but truly the pilgrimage begins when
you leave home.
When I left at 1:30am this morning, Noreen was leaning out the window
saying how beautiful the stars were. We said when we first moved into our new
home with almost no "light bleed" into the night sky, that we would
never tire of that majestic sight. I got quite emotional as I could see the
Milky Way right above where Noreen was. I was going to follow an ancient path
to the Compostela (the Field of Stars). My emotion was short lived, as I
switched on the engine and realised I had forgotten my phone! Needless to say, Noreen
had already spotted this and by the time I got to the door she had it in her
hand!
Less than two hours later l was going through security at Dublin
Airport...Madrid...I'm on my way!
OK...so arrived in a very sunny (31°c) Madrid...longest queue I've ever
seen at a passport control, but in fairness it was moving...20 minutes later...I
picked up my rucksack (my biggest concern of this whole trip was that would not
arrive).
First Challenge of the day! Getting to my train station in Madrid from
the airport!
As usual Gerry jumps on the train everyone else is getting on...it
genuinely could have been headed for Kilkenny. Realised looking at Google Maps
that I was probably a few stops away in the opposite direction after about 25
minutes. Managed to remove myself at the next stop and changed lines. Arrived
with plenty of time to spare. Had my first Cafe Con Leche while waiting and
feeling very bohemian! Video call check in with Noreen and now on board the
train to Sarria. Feels very odd having to board a train where your luggage is
checked (like in an airport) and you're security wanded!
Although there is no "set" starting point, all routes require
you to walk a consecutive 100km (or 200km on bike/horseback) to obtain your
certificate of completion (also called a "Compostela"). The route I
am walking is the most popular called the Camino Frances. About half of all
pilgrims walk this. "Traditionally" it starts on the French side of
the Pyrenees in a small Basque town called St Jean Pied de Port. Crossing the
mountains on Day 1 and going on via Pamplona, Burgos and Leon.
This is almost 800km and people do it in 30-40 days. About HALF of those
pilgrims however begin their journey in SARRIA which is about 115km from
Santiago de Compostela. One day I would dearly love to do "the long
one" but this, I hope, will satisfy an itch I have had since a Spanish
work colleague told me about in many years ago (Marcelino if you are reading
this...you have a lot to answer for).
Arrived safely at my lodgings for tonight...spotless! Just back from a
quick scan of the route for the morning and was fortunate to catch a Pilgrims
Mass that was just starting...didn't understand a word of it...but its amazing
how the cadences of peoples voices in ritual is the same in any language. About
100 of us crammed into a small church...finished off with a quick bite to eat...and
now bed beckons.
Day 2 Sarria to Portomarin (First Walking Day)
Early to bed last night (that is my planned pattern over the coming
days) has the downside of waking at 3am (naturally) 6 to 7 hours sleep is
normally enough for me. My plan is to begin walking at around 6am each day to
avoid as much of the heat, and to be able to break my day into two decent hikes
of about 12km.
Last night I got my first Pilgrim Stamp in my "Credential" (a
Pilgrims Passport that you get filled in with stamps each day you are on the
Camino (and twice a day in these last 100km). These stamps are unique to each
establishment (churches, hotels, hostels, bars, restaurants etc). My host last
night was so careful to ensure my first stamp was crisp and clear!
The first section today is a very steep climb in the town of Sarria
itself, and the majority of the first half of today is uphill...meaning the
second half will be downhill.
So part 2 of my day I discovered that the "downhill" parts
where infrequent BUT a steep killer on the tootsies! The last one is so steep
(just before you arrive in Portomarin) they WARN YOU about in in the
guidebooks. There was one man doing in backwards (it's about 1.5km) how he
didn't trip up is beyond me...but he was wearing knee supports...so I assume
this was easier for him.
I was in the dark (with headtorch) for the first 2 or 3 hours. About 3km
in my first human meeting (I met plenty of docile and bored cats and dogs). We
walked and talked for a few km and then we pulled apart as there was no way I
could keep up even their slow pace. That's the beauty of the Way...no one
expects you to walk at their pace, and no offence is taken or given when you
part.
Arrived at Portomarin around 1:30 after two short breaks, the first at
about 10:30 at a “Donativo”. Food is set out in covered containers like see
thru bread bins!
It is FREE as such you just make a donation. Some of the Albergues (pilgrim hostels) are run on this basis. If you genuinely
cannot pay the polite thing is to offer to help in the kitchen or assist with
the cleaning.
The rest of the day I am set to do some washing, get some dinner and
(apparently) Pilgrim Mass in English (so much for me trying to learn some of
the Spanish responses at 3am this morning!). Tomorrow is the longest day I
think (26km) but the gradients look a little better.
I meant to say Sarria is about the size (population) of Enniscorthy (but
the lack of statues of 1798 is the main difference...and no Dunnes Stores). Portomarin
is 1/10th that size). Still holding you all and your intentions with me every
single step.
Day 3 Portomarin to Palas
de Rei
Let's
talk about...NOCTURNAL LEG CRAMPS! Apparently, it's NOT just pregnant women who
can get this...unless we're in for a surprise after Christmas! After I booked into
my accommodation at 2pm I showered and got a hand wash onto the line. I then
laid down and elevated my legs for about 30 minutes...all good. But 30 minutes
later it felt like every muscle (yes I said muscle.... stop laughing) in both
my legs had been filled with concrete (and not in a way Dwane "The
Rock" Johnson would be boasting about....but in a way Gerry
"Stoneleg" Kane is not very familiar with!
Was I
panicked? Are the bathroom rituals of bears known about?
The only
thing I could think to do was to run into the shower and get some COLD water on
them (there was zero running involved BTW...hobbled is a better word). But....one
minute later I was better. Then after Mass (no English...so Spanish again) and
food and taking in my washing I went to sleep. Two hours later the cramps were
back again...so back into cold shower…took a few minutes longer...but
eventually it worked. So at the time of writing this (4;04am) all good. Looked
up causes YouTube last night and I think it's a combination of overuse and not
being hydrated enough. So onto today!
The first
"main" village (and in all cases these are tiny...a few houses and
maybe a hostel or somewhere to eat) is about 10km away. Looks like again the
early part of the day will be uphill (but not as steep as yesterday) and the
rest of the day (another 15km) is "gently rolling hills" we'll see).
A quick
word before I set out about the "types" of people I see on the trail.
Firstly EVERYONE is walking ONE WAY. The only people you occasionally see
coming the opposite way are locals. Other than that you are (in my case at
least) having people pass you. At this time of the year...the vast majority of
people who passed me yesterday were young Spaniards. Late teens/early 20s. But
also older people (again mainly Spanish, but I heard German, American and a few
Irish and Italian accents too). There are two types of people who do this
(trackers and pilgrims) your reasons for doing this are very different as you
need to walk your own Camino (actually I have seen a number of cyclists and
what looked like a father and a young teenage son on two magnificent horses
complete with horse paniers!).At the Pilgrims Mass in the towns the majority of
people there are under 30.
Today's
walk was needless to say- tiring. I left at 5am so by the time of first
breakfast (maybe 9k - coffee and croissant) ordered in the dark and left as the
sun was rising. What I've really noticed is that because you can only see the
limited vison that your head torch is giving you...you can't see the reality of
the hills in front of you...so it's less scary. It also lovely and cool (far
from "cold" maybe 15°c but shaded).
I meet my
first pilgrims of the day about 90 minutes in. They were planning on doing 40km
today! He was from South Africa and this was his 5th Camino. She was from Texas
and as soon as she said it I said that my first "meet" yesterday was
with the person she had started out the journey with! That's the small world of
the Camino! But when he first meet me he said (now we are in the dark in
a Galician woods) "you are Patrick" it wasn't a question. I thought
"oh you know Paddy, Irish" etc. And I asked him to say that
again....and again he said it as a STATEMENT. Well you could have knocked me
over with a feather (in fairness with the state of my body...that would have
been easy). So, as you may or may not know back in May this year I finally
tracked down my original birth certificate...registered as PATRICK JOSEPH. I
told them my story. We spoke for about a kilometre and she had said how
supportive her husband had been, and I said...same here. "Would your wife
have liked to do this?' she asked. I said "she's not that foolish", but
her disability and her recent recovery would have made it difficult. As we
parted he held back with me to say he had lost his wife to cancer only a few
months ago...they had walked the previous Caminos together, and he wanted to do
this one in her memory and then explore other new geographical adventures. It
was quite an emotional encounter (not at the time...but as I thought about it
during the day).
Stopped
for lunch at 9:17am Potato Omelette (cold sliced slab...that's an Omelette over
here!) It was beautiful!,
Today was
a longer distance than yesterday...and there was a large (by "hill
stroll" standards) overall incline of just over 1000m. Draining, because
it's relentless...very very few "flat" parts today. Last stop was
about 6km out of my final destination for today. Coffee and a slice of Tarta de
Santiago (not a clue...but it was sweet and tasty).
My kmph
at this stage of the day are close to 20 minutes per km. But I don't
care...it's just another day closer to Santiago De Compostela.
I slept
for about 2 hours after getting my room...Pilgrims Mass and dinner...and
another early start in the morning...as I realise I have about 28km to do to
get to my accommodation tomorrow!!!
Once
again I am keeping you in my thoughts and prayers...and thank you all so much
for keeping me in yours.
Day 4 Palas De Rei to
Rivadiso
Our Story — Teac Tom
(thethomashayestrust.com)
I'm starting out this morning with a link to The Thomas Hayes Trust. Way
back at Christmas, when Noreen gave me some equipment with a note that said
"for your Camino" we had looked at doing this for charity. I've done
some long distance walking/jogging (The Kerry Challenge for EB, Trailtrackers
for Oxfam...and the Dublin City Marathon for Crumlin Children's Hospital). But
I decided against it because "working from home" would make
fundraising too difficult. But a few weeks ago when I posted that I was doing
this I added a link to Teac Tom (The Thomas Hayes Trust). I worked with Angela
at the time she set up the charity and I remember vividly when she and her son Alan
were on the Late Late Show speaking about the unbelievable heartache of their
family...and when she said the date of the anniversary (19th March) my
birthday, in my head we were "bonded". I have done a little work for
them to assist in any way I can...and say what you like about the downside of
Facebook...adding that DONATION button is so easy. I am overwhelmed by your
generosity...every euro counts.
In recent months I lost a friend who whom life was just too much
for...they are in my thoughts every step of the way. If you can donate that
would be great...but please do open the link to read about their story and the
work they do.
So...did I mention its 2am in the morning?
Although I am settling "alarms" I'll wake when I wake. I slept
for a few hours when I arrived yesterday and was asleep around 9. I might sleep
on...I might not...we'll see how it goes. I am loving the early starts.
Today is looks like being fairly similar to yesterday in term of
undulations and distance (slightly longer distance today). I was too late for
the Pilgrims Mass last night but I managed to squeeze myself into the back to
get the Pilgrims Blessing.
Before I begin todays travels I want to say a word about
"stones". One of the driving inspirations to doing this was the movie
"The Way" Directed by Emilio Esteves and staring his father Martin
Sheen...it's "the" Camino movie...I watch it often...and cry in all
the right places. He is given a stone at the start of his Camino and is
told..."you'll know what to do with it".
Traditionally on this route you place it at the Iron Cross (Cruz del Ferro)
as a symbol of your efforts on the Camino with a stone from home. That place is
beyond my starting point in the other direction, so I won't get that experience
this time. However at many of the marking signs you see little piles of stones
placed there by Pilgrims. Before I left Catherine and Ciaran had gone to my
parents grave in Dublin and taken three stones, which they then got blessed....
Needless to say I may have shed a tear or two when they gave them to me. I
still have them with me. So my thinking is that one represents the intentions
of my family members, of my friends and one for those who have departed.
So started out at 4;45am this morning and it's now 9:30...14.5kms done...about
9 in darkness. Hard going for me as always and another 10km or so to go I'd
say. Stopped for coffee/Croissant/Fresh Orange Juice just before 6am...couldn't
believe he was open. So far to here very few pilgrims have passed me...but this
place is a busy large town, and I get another coffee, many are passing by
now.
Spent about 4km walking with a retired couple from London, Ontario
Canada (where Noreen was born!!!)...I had seen them at all the Pilgrim Masses.
It's their second one, the walked the last bit like I am, five years ago, and
once they both turned 65 they set out from St Jean Pied de Port to undertake
the big one. Walking and talking with others, for me, speeds me up (in a good
way) and when they stopped to take refreshments and I parted ways I thanked
them for their company and helping me to move just a little faster.
Later on I walked for about 2km with a lady from Norway (my Norwegian
isn't "great" but I could say “hello” and her English was superb!
Lol. We talked about our children, blisters (none for me so far...but she is
"riddled").
I know when I'm getting to the end of my walking day because I get
overtaken by a group of three South Koreans, Spanish "bouncy people" with
far too much energy for what they have done through the day...we don't talk much...but
the simple act of wishing each other the traditional "Buen Camino"
genuinely lightens your mood.
25km done 14:00 here in Spain...I have just 1km to go to my accommodation,
but I really needed to stop and rest for a bit before that final push. Has a
little bit of drizzle about 2 hours ago...but it was lovely and refreshing.
Arrived banjaxed in my accommodation at about 14:45 - the last kilometre took 22 minutes!!! Anyway...safe and well. Quick shower and a call home and then
stretches/elevation/rest. Slept like a log for over 3 hours. So just washing
and some dinner (no Mass here it's too small...even God doesn't know where I
am!).
Rinse and repeat until tomorrow. 41km to go according to the
markings...I think tomorrow is about 23km...but I like a surprise!
Day 5 Rivadiso to O Pedrouzo
Stop/start sleep...but I'm no longer thinking of it as sleep...just rest.
I'm not in the slightest bit "tired" except for the walking if that
doesn't sound too much of a contradiction. Today outside my accommodation there
is a directional sign (these are placed pretty much every junction...and at
many points between those). The Camino from Sarria is EXTREMELY well marked in Galicia.
I'm not saying you "can't" get lost...but if you’re paying attention
it's very difficult to.
So anyway, from the marker...I have just over 40km to go.
Some do walk this section in one day...but they are clearly abnormal!
It felt odd last night not staying in a small town...where I was staying
just a few hostels and private accommodations. So choices for food etc was
limited. But I had my first "Pilgrim Meal" in the Albergue across the
road these are on offer for normally about €12 on production of your credential
(pilgrim passport). Three simple courses...very good value.
So finally set put at 5am and had 10km (well 50m shy) done by the first
place that was open for breakfast...the usual. Just before (maybe 8km) there
was a cliff wall on my left and about half way down it was festooned with small
Crosses that people have etched in over the years. There was a small ledge and
some stones, as always at such places, had been placed. There were also many
Memorial Cards...so sad to see a picture of a beautiful young woman who died
only last month aged 25. I stopped for a few minutes to pray, and as was was
walking away, my first pilgrims of the day passed me. A middle aged couple from
Milan...needless to say my Italian stretches to Pizza, espresso and pasta,
which strangely enough were not subjects they seemed to want to talk about! She
had a little English, and we all had "get by" Spanish so we were in
some way able to converse. They said they liked to start early as they didn't
like to meet people (what they meant was to avoid the crowds...but luckily I
didn't take offence lol)
After lunch (9:50am is lunch time somewhere!) I met my Canadian
compadres. Walked and talked for nearly 5km...it FLEW by.
A short day today and I arrived safe and well in my (once again)
SPOTLESS accommodation. The man who runs it was extremely kind and helpful
(even took the backpack off my back and put it in the room. I know it's not
"everyone" but ALL I have seen over the past fews days from locals,
service providers and fellow pilgrims...has been just simple kindness...and
that is a beautiful thing indeed.
So just the usual routine, Pilgrim Mass is at 7pm and it's about 500m
away...after that bed awaits. Noreen asked me earlier on if I have more of a
"pep in my step" knowing Santiago was in sight...there is zero pep
and lots of steps...but I just said to her this journey is more like
"crawling and bawling" than anything else!
Tomorrow, please God, I will arrive at the Cathedral.
Day 6 O Pedrouzo to
Santiago de Compostela
"The
Lord is always leading us into new territory that breaks with where we have
been. His presence among us is dynamic. The Holy Spirit is always ahead of us
and we have to keep catching up with his lead. It is not enough to say, ‘The
old is good’, to quote the ending of the gospel reading. There is much good in
the old, but the Spirit of the Lord is always breaking new ground, and that is
something to rejoice in, not to complain about. What we need above all is the
freedom to go where the Spirit is leading us."
So not my
words...but when I opened up the Irish Catholic Mass Readings for the day at
last night's PACKED Pilgrims Mass...the above was part of the Gospel
reflection. To be honest in all my years of using this...I have never noticed
any reflection!
At the
homily the Priest walked down the aisle asking people where they were from. Spanish
regions obviously. But German, Dutch, Puerto Rican, Canadian, Indian and
Slovenia where just some I heard. I figured it was best to just say Irlanda as some
of them wouldn't know where Ballindoney is!
I woke at
2:30am and a few minutes later Catherine sent me a "best of luck"
message, apparently you can't tell your children they should be in bed when
they are 24 and living in the Middle East! I said I was checking the forecast
(which I then forgot to do!) and then head off. A few more messages answered,
and I set out the door at 3:24am.
This was
a lovely 20km (plus 2km detour to the Pilgrim Statues). Almost ALL of my
walking time was in darkness today...and until daylight, not a single Pilgrim
passed me. The downside of the early starts is you have to travel quite far
before anywhere is open (normally 6am onwards)...so my first coffee was just
shy of 15km today.
The
upsides however...they are plentiful! Firstly, in my first post I spoke about
the night sky. I thought that these past two days would have been overcast and
stargazing would not be on the cards. So much so that 3 days ago I made a note
of the times I saw Orion's Belt (lazy astronomers that we are...that's Noreen's and my "go to" constellation ..a bit like "our song"
but...starry) so that if she saw it we'd know that we were looking at the same
time. Turns out we did...for me to my left in Galicia, for Noreen from our
bedroom window.
Today I
would say every 15 to 20 minutes I would switch of my head torch and look up in
awe at the majesty of the night sky...Crystal CLEAR. Another upside of the
darkness was when I eventually placed my stones...I was completely alone and
not self-conscious of knelling at the side of a road!
It also
means I am missing out on "scenery" but to be frank I have a view
outside of our home that is far superior to anything I have seen here. That's
not putting down Galicia...it is really lovely...hand made stone walls everywhere...but
I'm not here to sightsee.
Today's
thoughts on the road consisted mainly on two things. Noreen and I speaking last
night were looking at the word "inspire", because, although it's
something people have said to me, I don't see that in myself. But it got me
thinking that for most of us...we don't believe we inspire others...but we DO.
It may be a kind word or a simple action...but we rarely let people know. We
need to accept that we are ENOUGH. Others see us in a way we very infrequently
see ourselves. I love to challenge and to progress, but I also need to
recognise I am simply enough. In Noreen's upcoming book she has a reflection
called "The Forest". When she first read this to me I knew others
needed to hear this. Simply put we can see our own flaws too quickly. but
others see the entire you.
Anyway...onwards
to Santiago...
About 1km
from the Cathedral (the end point) the lady who I had met on my first morning
hike tapped me on the shoulder...we bawled our eyes out when we met and hugged
in gratitude that we would "cross the line together". I had said to
her that I was thinking this morning how fate can have such strange impacts. I
had thought that if I hadn't met her for those few kilometres...and we hadn't
been bitchin about Donald Trump and Ted Cruz we wouldn't have went off
route...and I would never have downloaded the "Buen Camino App" which
has been such a comfort to me on the early mornings.
Then I
met the Italian couple I encountered yesterday (again my first pilgrims of the
day) we hugged like long lost friends. You enter the square via a stepped
alleyway and there is normally (from videos I've seen) a Galician Piper
busking...and today was no exception!
The
square was busy but not packed (this was about 10am) which meant we could get
some photos without too much hassle. We trundled along to the Pilgrims Office
to present our Credential and receive our Compostela (although as I've said
this means "Field of Stars" it is what they call the certificate.
Very beautiful with your named added by hand in Latin.
Later on
I was able to leave my rucksack at my accommodation but couldn't check in until
3pm...but I managed to change into clean clothes there at least...I stink...but
my clothes are "presentable"!
At 1pm I
joined a very large queue to get into the Cathedral...but I was in by 1:20pm.
It is stunning...didn't take too many pictures as there are plenty on line.
Then you have to exit and join a new queue outside to come back in again to
enter the Crypt...a beautiful experience to spend a few seconds in front of the
reliquary. I clearly made a mistake in my original posting...this is James the
Greater (not James the Lesser, who was also James the Just...known as the
brother of Jesus and the first leader of the church in Jerusalem....not him
so...the other one...as in James and John the son's of Zebadee who according to
the Gospel were the witness's to the transformation along with Peter, and who
Jesus commanded to keep watch and stay awake after the Last Super...he's the
lad we're dealing with....church history 101 with Gerry 😆)
So
EVENTUALLY ate a beautiful lunch at about 2:30pm...first thing I've eaten all
day and finally got my room keys....quick shower and a brief snooze...and then
Pilgrim Mass in the Cathedral at 7:30. I reckon I'd need to be there an hour
beforehand to get a seat.
I'll
close off for now and I'll do a final instalment on the train to Madrid
tomorrow. Candles were lit for you all and your intentions today...if any of
you win the lotto tonight...maybe you could remember that!
Buen
Camino!!!
Day 7
Adios a Santiago!
What is a
pilgrim? In my conversations with Noreen yesterday she was sharing dictionary
definitions..."one who travels abroad/visits holy places" etc. I
really don't know what it really is...but I probably think of it as someone who
journeys towards something. I've never been to Lourdes, Fatima, Medjugorje etc
(I've "been" to Knock, but not in any organised way).
My only
two "Pilgrimages" I would say are both related to music. My last time
on a plane before this week was a Christmas present Noreen got me to have a
long weekend in Liverpool to soak myself in Beatles stuff! After all the years
of reading books and listening to the music they created. to see first-hand
Menlove Avenue where John lived with his Aunt Mimi, or Paul, George and Ringo's childhood homes, to see Penny Lane and Strawberry Fields...this WAS for me a
"pilgrimage".
Then
going back a number of years further (Catherine was about 15 months old and
Maria was 6...Noreen and I must have been...about...17 I'd say!). We VERY
rarely take "holidays" I not proud of that, but we always found other
uses for our money (and I suppose living in England for many years did mean
"holidays" were used to "get home").
But, I
digress, one evening Noreen was flicking through Teletext (people were always
saying that they were booking cheap holidays off it, we just used to use 4Tel
to play BAMBOOZLE!).
Anyway
Noreen booked a long weekend (Easter) in Birmingham. The trip included, hotel,
breakfast and evening meals, and tickets to Cadburys World, Warwick Castle and
the Aquarium! It was certainly less than £300 and it felt like we'd been away
for a month! The pilgrimage part however was my request to take a little detour
after Stratford upon Avon. Since I was 14 and my friend John Holland played me
his sister's album of Nick Drakes Five Leaves Left, I have had such a love for
his music. Another one for whom life just got too much for. So our detour took
us to his parents house and to his simple grave in a Chocolate Box English
churchyard.
My
abiding thought on THIS pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela is EVERYONE
moving for days weeks and months in the SAME direction. Different reasons...one
GOAL!
And so
here I am, on a train, leaving this stunningly beautiful city bound for the
bustling vibrant Madrid. On my train journey into Galicia a week ago, I first
encountered the strange routine of having my passport checked and baggage
scanned prior to boarding...and the same now on the return. There is obviously
a reason, but it's odd to show your passport "in country". But it
also does make it feel like to travelling abroad again..so that's not a bad
thing.
About
Last Night...
So the day ended with the Pilgrim's Mass at 7:30pm and then a little dinner before bed.
So the day ended with the Pilgrim's Mass at 7:30pm and then a little
dinner before bed. The Botafumeiro was not in action (it relatively rare now to
see it) so I had no expectations...I would have LOVED to see it...but not
disappointed that I didn't
2,342
pilgrims received their Compostela yesterday according to the Cathedral website
today, so it's important to understand how many do this every year. The high
season to begin are the shoulder months of April and May, September and
October...I imagine 2,000 is probably a reasonable daily average meaning about
750,000 make it. Millions over the years. I count myself a member now of
another family (I seem to be picking up new ones quite often these
days!).
At mass I
met my Canadian friends...who I hadn't seen on the road. We spoke for some time
after Mass. and I thanked them both so much for their company, which had 100%
made me pick up my pace.
I then
went in search of much needed food and I was a little of the beaten track when
I saw my Norwegian Peregrino coming towards me with her group, more hugs and
joy ensued. For me it meant that I had meet once more EVERY single fellow Peregrino
I had spent time walking and talking with...I was overjoyed! It made me think
of what was I doing, really, when I started out. Like I said I had NO
expectations...every single thing was a bonus. Physically (for me) it was
tremendously hard, but I KNEW it was not going to be a problem. Noreens’ words
when she was going through her illness this year..."I'm not in pain (when
she clearly was), I'm "healing". I've sent some people small messages
over the past few days about things they have said or done for me over the years...maybe
it was a kind sentence, or a seemingly small action...but those things can have
a HUGE impact on a person's life...and that person may never know. This was
NEVER. NEVER, NEVER about the walking. If I want to walk I have White Mountain
in the Blackstairs Range looming over our house as we look down the drive. I
have St Mullens and its River Barrow Walk, less than 15 minutes drive away.
Never about the walk, the stats, the time or distance.
There are
two main groups who undertake this...Pilgrims and Trackers...I always knew
which subgroup I was in. I loved walking with "hikers" and no one
would dream of asking another "why are you doing this?" because it
does not matter.
Every
single person is going to experience this "their way". Some will feel
a sense of physical achievement (and rightly so...as I do) others will feel
"Spiritually Uplifted" others might even lose their faith...or
experience...nothing. And that's OK.
Emotionally
I really feel I've matured. What I mean is, I am one of God's "easy criers"
and I as OK with that today as I was last week. But something funny happened
yesterday, walking and praying (I should say other than my ritual of a single
decade of the rosary as I left each morning, and the odd Our Father at shines,
this pray was in the form of mantras almost. I would think of a person in my
life, maybe someone who I might only see or hear from once in a decade, I would
ask for their intentions to be heard. and that would lead me on to maybe a
person I associate with THAT person and do the same etc. Sometimes at rest
stops I would look at Facebook and look at "Likes" and start the
process there, so chances are if you liked posts...you got more prayers! You
see sometimes vanity does pay off). Off tangent Gerry, get back on the trail.
So
anyway, yesterday through tears I was walking in the dark and slipped because I
had continued walking and was reaching for a tissue. I said to myself...Gerry
being a cry baby is bad enough but you have to suppress them sometimes or your
path will get very blurry!
Before I
left this morning I was making a quick video call to Noreen and the girls (and
Ryan and Ciaran too...lucky me) showing the outside of the Cathedrals
architecture. I noticed there was no queue for the crypt...so I paid one final
visit to the reliquary. Does it really contain the remains of the Apostle,
probably not, these things had such a political impact in Medieval times, it is
highly doubtful. However, to me, it I'd matter before I got there, or when I
got there. This was the end point that millions of others had got to over the
last 1,000 years. That was ENOUGH.
This
brings me to the end of my journey (not my pilgrimage, that will continue my
whole earthly life). Sitting in McDonalds in STUNNING MADRID. With a Big Mac
and a (alcohol free) Beer...I jest you not!
To words
will remain my abiding memories of these past few days...KINDNESS and ENOUGH.
I have
been blown away by people's kindness. Kind words, kind actions, people have
just been kind. No a SINGLE person (locals, service providers or fellow peregrinos)
has been anything but KIND. It's such a lovely thing...I hope to up my
"kindness" as I travel on.
And
ENOUGH..I am enough, I rediscovered me this week. And realise yet again what a
wonderful opportunity life is...I'm far from perfect. and that's OK. I can work
on improving those imperfections...but I like me again!
ENOUGH!
In memory
of our faithful departed
To my
Father's (ALL three of them...one gave me life, one gave me nurturing and
Noreens Dad gave me wisdom) RIP
To my
Mother who gave me two great passions, walking and politics! RIP
To
friends who have left us too soon
To
Arthur, To Declan, To Alan, To John To Jim RIP
To all of
my friends, and family many whom I never see, but you are living in my head.
whether you want to or not.
But to my
girls...what more can a father ask than their child's happiness...you bring me
that every day so your own levels must have some to spare!!
Every
single step of this journey was taken with Noreen by my side. My soul mate
since I was 17! Now there was a good decision I made! Without you this would
have been meaningless!
I'm
signing off now before they kick me out of McDonalds...for…you know...
BAWLING!
Adios...Buenos
Notches
